Le Jardin aux Etoiles
Riad between Agadir and Taroudant, in southern Morocco
Holiday rental with a resident of Swiss nationality
 Côté sudVirages et déclivité. |  Tizi n'testUne route vertigineuse depuis la vallée du Souss. |  Au sommetUn café sommaire. |  Depuis le sommet du tizi n'TestL'Atlas majestueux. |  Chemin faisantVillage berbère en pisé, en contrebas. |
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From Souss to Marrakech by the tizi n'Test
This is "the" excursion! To go to the South of Morocco and not cross the Tizi n'Test is to give up an unforgettable must. It's like missing out on a tagine or not tasting Friday couscous... This magnificent and epic route at the foot of Toubkal can be done either fromMarrakesh to get to the Jardin aux Etoiles, or from our riad in the direction of the Ocher City.
Dhen you have to drive nearly six hours away, it is advisable to reserve a day, which will be populated with innumerable discoveries for those who know how to see and appreciate...
This crossing is exciting in all seasons, except in winter when it is better to avoid the ice, which has already caused too many accidents. Some speak of a daunting journey and many Moroccans almost assimilate it to the kingdom of the Devil, so that they... have never taken it! The route certainly includes many bends. But it is still secure, in particular by low walls.
Magnifique, particulièrement en hiver, lorsque les plus hauts sommets sont encore enneigés. Le Tinergouet (à gauche) culmine à un peu plus de 3'500 mètres.
Vu de l'Anti-Atlas (photo Martine Hervé )
Le riad Hida se situe dans la partie sud du bourg d'Ouled Berhil
Un jardin plus que centenaire
A la tombée de la nuit, ils s'approchent pour sauter de cette construction à leurs nids, qui se trouvent sur des arbres situés en face.
Dans le jardin du Riad Hida
From your riad in Ouled Berhil
If you start from the Souss valley - the direction of the journey that offers the strongest sensations - you have to go up to Ouled Berhil. In this locality, if you have the time, a stopoverat Riad Hida, with old-fashioned charm and founded in the 19th century by the pasha of the same name.
You will admire the Arab-Andalusian garden, whose vegation was installed under the Protectorate, so that you can see all the benefit of the passage of time. You will also come face to face with the peacocks of the house, which have multiplied... quite naturally.
Paysage du haut de la Vallée du Souss
Perdu sur les contreforts du tizi n'Test.
Contrastes en montant le tizi n'Test
Ce géant d'Afrique du Nord (4'167 mètres) se situe immédiatement à l'est du tizi n'Test. Mais l'aperçoit partiellement depuis la route (photo Anderegg).
Au soleil couchant
Lieu mythique créé par Richard Branson, patron de Virgin.
Dizzying climb of the tizi n'Test, then slow descent to Marrakech
The tizi n'Test climbs quite quickly first among the argan trees, then on the hillside. The pines frequently line the road, in the places most exposed to the heat. The road winds near the Toubkal massif, which can be seen very partially, but from different angles and on countless occasions. Like a companion watching over your journey... Watch out for the road! Turns can be tight and crossings in some difficult places. You have to be careful.
The valleys that stretch throughout the Tizi n'Test are far from being depopulated. On the contrary, we can see, often below, Amazigh villages that have retained all their authenticity. The adobe dwellings almost blend into nature. Well-fed streams abound.
At nearly 2,100 meters above sea level
The summit of the pass is at 2,092 meters. We enjoy a spectacular view, south side, from the belvedere of the emblematic café which dominates the vertiginous slope.
The road descends more slowly on the Marrakech side and is much longer than on the Souss side. Along the way, we come across some decent hostels. However, the sympathetic name should notTo the smoking boar. The place deserves to be refreshed at the very least... Further on,The sheepfold with its Berber-Provençal style, it seems worth stopping by. At the next inn-restaurant,Marigha Olive Grove, on the right, the lunch menu will allow you to eat pleasantly by the pool, at a reasonable price. But leave our riad early enough!
Mosque of Tinmel and Asni
One of the main curiosities of the route isTinmel Mosque, which dates from the 12th century. Recently restored, depending on the donations made, it represents one of the most significant religious sites in Morocco. Spiritual home of the founder of the Almohad dynasty,Ibn Tumart, it was considered a holy place for centuries. Looted, she saw her role gradually fade away. Unlike other mosques in Morocco, that of Tinmel can be visited by non-Muslim visitors, as long as it does not host a religious ceremony.
We soon arrive at Asni, still located at an altitude of 1,150m. This beautiful Berber village is located in the center of a magnificent circus. It is from here that expeditions leave to climb Toubkal, via Imlil. Virgin founder Richard Branson built thereKasbah Tamadot, a sophisticated and luxury hotel that is the Moroccan retreat of its creator.
We still crossed the gorges of Moulay Brahim. Turning our backs on Toubkal, we then leave the High Atlas massif, to reachMarrakesh, at the end of a busy day, rich in visual emotions.